From Roman Ruins to Cretan Cuisine: A Journey with Abercrombie & Kent

Embarking on a journey with a group of strangers can be a challenge. This was my situation when I joined fellow travel writers for an exclusive tour of Rome and the Cretan countryside. After a delightful dinner of prawns, smoked salmon, sautéed dorado, and a generous amount of Mazzei Zisola Noto Rosso, I joked with my colleagues that the only unforgivable sin on a press trip was to make the group late for the next stop. Little did I know that I would be the one to commit this cardinal sin the next day when our guide, Kapi, called me at 8:30 am to say, “We are all waiting for you.”

Thinking our departure was at 9 a.m., not 8 a.m. I’d been awake for hours in my room checking email, oblivious to my fellow journalists waiting in the vans on the street just one floor below me. Roman traffic is never predictable; rush hour makes it worse. It was a long, uncomfortable ride to the airport. But as rude as my tardiness was, we were unlikely to miss our flight. We were flying private.

Abercrombie and Kent, our tour organizers, has a unique way of showcasing their Wings over the World Journeys. These tours utilize private jets to transport guests between destinations like London, Paris, Rome, and Athens. The convenience of private flights cannot be overstated, but what truly sets these tours apart are the local guides. They are the key to unlocking the hidden gems of each location. A good guide can transform a trip, and A&K has the best. Thanks to them, I could travel through ancient Roman and Minoan civilizations while indulging in some of the world’s best street food.

 And if I did sleep in, the plane would wait.

2024 AD: Rome

Fortunately, I was more punctual for my commercial flight into Rome. At the airport, I was greeted by Kapi, an Abercrombie & Kent representative who stayed with us for the entire trip. The drive to Hotel de la Ville was easy, if not particularly swift. Rome has no freeways, and every street is a winding road. It’s best to sit back and enjoy the ride.

Perched atop the Spanish Steps, Hotel de la Ville blends historical grandeur and contemporary luxury. The central courtyard, which serves breakfast and lunch, and refined interiors provide a serene retreat from the bustling streets of Rome.

It is also worth stopping by the rooftop bar for great views of the Roman skyline and a playful cocktail menu. I opted for the Abbronzatissima, described by the hotel as: “Sunshine, Wild Turkey, Bourbon—and you’re already in pole position—fresh lemon juice, London Essense white peach, and jasmine soda. Libidine.” In Italian it means “very tanned,” but it could also be a reference to the 1963 single by Edoardo Vianello. Regardless, it was lovely.

 

141 AD: San Lorenzo in Miranda

Our first stop was a truly exclusive visit to San Lorenzo in Miranda, a site not open to the public. Originally constructed as the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina in 141 AD, it was a tribute to Emperor Antoninus Pius and his wife, Faustina. The temple underwent a transformation during the Middle Ages, around the 7th century when it was converted into the Church of San Lorenzo in Miranda. Over the years, it evolved into a hub for medicinal practices and the apothecary arts, reflecting the medieval and Renaissance periods’ reliance on herbal medicine. Today, it is a treasure trove of beautifully crafted glass and ceramic bottles that store essential oils, tinctures, and extracts derived from rosemary, sage, and lavender. The jar of “merucio ossido giallo” was marketed “veleno” with a skull and crossbones. 

This evolution of San Lorenzo is part of a broader trend in which many ancient Roman structures were repurposed for Christian worship, turned into storehouses of natural knowledge, and are now used as tourist attractions.

700 BC: The Roman Forum

San Lorenzo sits at the edge of the Forum, the epicenter of Roman public life. The forum hosted triumphal processions, elections, public speeches, criminal trials, and gladiatorial matches. The Forum dates back to around the 7th century BC and continued to be used until the 4th century AD. The area subsequently fell into disrepair, becoming a pasture known as the “Campo Vaccino” (Cow Field) during the Middle Ages.

Excavations at the Roman Forum began in earnest in the early 19th century, driven by a thriving market for relics from classical antiquity. The Italian archaeologist, Carlo Fea, led the first efforts to clear the area in 1803. However, it wasn’t until the unification of Italy and the subsequent establishment of Rome as the capital in 1870 that more systematic and state-sponsored excavations were initiated.

Excavations in the Forum have revealed layers of history; for example, the San Lorenzo on the Miranda floor sits five meters above the floor of the Roman Forum, all of which have been excavated. These archaeological efforts often spark controversy, particularly when intersecting modern infrastructure projects. The construction of the new metro line near the Forum has faced significant delays due to the discovery of ancient artifacts and structures. When I asked our local guide, Eva, when the project would be completed, she just laughed.

The quest to uncover the Roman Forum’s secrets has not been without its losses. Early excavators often removed or destroyed layers of history in their eagerness to reach the most ancient remains. Medieval and Renaissance structures that had developed on top of the ancient ruins were often demolished to get to the more ancient relics, erasing centuries of historical layers. For instance, the 16th-century church of Santa Maria Liberatrice was demolished in 1900 to reveal the ancient church of Santa Maria Antiqua beneath it.

Today, the Roman Forum is an open-air museum with ongoing excavations and restoration efforts to preserve its history. Modern archaeologists use advanced technologies such as ground-penetrating radar and 3D modeling to explore the site with minimal disturbance. These efforts are helping to uncover new insights while preserving the delicate balance of the historical layers.

139: AD Castel Sant’Angelo

The following morning began with an exclusive tour of Castel Sant’Angelo. Originally designed as Emperor Hadrian’s grand tomb, the massive stone rotunda grew to become the fortress from which popes defended the city. Although Sant’Angelo served as an escape room for popes in times of invasion, the papal apartments are quite grand, featuring the best art of every age. As one of the most secure buildings in the city, it was also used to hold the Vatican’s treasury.

Abercrombie & Kent can sometimes arrange access to the secret passages connecting the castle to the Vatican, but the gates were sealed on our trip. Nevertheless, the Castello’s roof offers some of the best views of St. Peter’s Basilica and the Tiber River in Rome. It is a great place to snap photos and get a feel for the city’s layout.

2024 AD: Trastevere

After immersing ourselves in Rome’s ancient splendors, we ventured into Trastevere, one of the city’s most charming and vibrant neighborhoods, for a culinary journey like no other. Our guides, Toni and Walter from culinary tour company Eating Europe, introduced us to the unique food culture of Rome with their extensive knowledge and passion for local cuisine. Like all the best guides, they brought us to attractions we would never have been able to find on our own.

Our first stop was at La Norcineria di Iacozzilli, a haven for meat lovers. We learned the nuanced differences between Parmigiano Reggiano and pecorino romano, two of Italy’s most beloved cheeses. But the highlight was undoubtedly the porchetta—succulent, slow-roasted pork seasoned with aromatic herbs. Roasted daily in a small town outside Rome, it was soft, fatty, salty, and perfect. It is cliché to say this dish was “the best thing I have tasted,” but my mouth waters every time I edit these words. I was reaching for a second slice when a local Nonna scolded us in Italian for taking up all the sidewalk space on the narrow street in front of the shop. One perfect bite would have to suffice.

Leaving the cozy confines of La Norcineria, we crossed the Tiber River and arrived at Campo de Fiori, Rome’s most famous open-air market. It buzzed with activity, a vibrant tapestry of colors, smells, and sounds. La Norcineria was like a farmers market anywhere in the world but loaded with Italian staples—eggplant, artichokes, and, of course, tomatoes. After the meatiness of the porchetta, a few bites of Caprese salad with local tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, and basil was the perfect palate cleanser.

 From there, we headed a few blocks to the Ristorante di Pancrazio, where we were led to the basement and handed an apron. In addition to being travel guides, Toni and Walter were chefs who helped us make homemade ravioli filled with lemon-scented ricotta and tagliatelle all’amatriciana. The best way to appreciate a place’s food is to eat it, but making it yourself gets your hands dirty.

I was so focused on kneading and rolling pasta that I almost forgot to look up and see the past. The Ristorante di Pancrazio was built on the ruins of the Theater of Pompey, a venue built entirely of marble that could hold more than 20,000 spectators. Perhaps most infamously, this was the theater where Brutus and Cassius assassinated Julius Caesar. Walking down the steps to the basement, we stepped back to 55 BC. I can’t say why, but it made our pasta taste better.

 

2024: Heraklion, Crete

I flew from Rome to Heraklion on a private plane, and as we arrived at the executive terminal at Rome’s Ciampino Airport, it didn’t feel like we were late. The plane would leave when we were ready. We breezed through security as our luggage was loaded onto the plane. We sat, gave a thumbs-up, and rolled down the tarmac in minutes. I have heard mixed things about safety protocols on private flights, but both times I have flown private, we took off without formal safety briefings. Just get on and go.

 The plane itself was everything you would expect in a private jet. The Bombardier Challenger 850 has a range of approximately 2,800 miles and seats 14 passengers in its VIP configuration. To give you a sense of size, the 850 is based on the Bombardier CRJ-200 regional jet that can seat 50. You will have room to stretch out.

Approaching Crete by plane can be bumpy, at least when the south winds are blowing, and they were blowing hard when we arrived. Known as the “Livas” or “Sirocco,” these warm winds from the Sahara Desert can raise temperatures significantly and often carry dust and sand from North Africa. The Livas typically occur in the spring and autumn, influencing the island’s climate and occasionally causing discomfort due to their dryness and heat.

Although merely curious to tourists like me, Cretan natives took the South Winds very seriously. My visit was at the first blush of spring; all the olive trees were starting to bloom. A long, harsh south wind can disrupt the bloom and damage the leaves and fruit. The results can be catastrophic. During the 2013-2014 season, for example, crop yields dropped from 100,000 tons to less than 40,000 tons. The crash crushed many local producers.

The winds died off after a day, but I had to wash the sand off my contacts that first night.

1900 BC: The Palace of Knossos

Though only three miles from the center of Heraklion, the Palace of Knossos feels like the middle of nowhere. A few homes and trinket shops in the small valley are all you see when you park. “Is the Palace really near here?” asked one member of our party. Indeed it was, but think more palace ruins than Palace. This isn’t the Renaissance or ancient Rome; we were exploring a civilization that existed two thousand years before Christ. A people more myth than memory.

It was the myth I was most interested in. I grew up on Greek mythology. Theseus used a thread to navigate the Labyrinth and slay the half-man, half-bull beast, which seemed to be the height of cleverness and heroism for my 10-year-old self. And now, a few millennia later, I would get the chance to walk those same tunnels. 

Or on top of them, as it turns out. They no longer let tourists in the maze, although our guide, Kapi, has brought people there and even gotten lost. Nonetheless, the Palace is amazing. At this point, the structure combines ruins and recreations that replicate the colors and art of the time. At its peak, the palace was the home of up to 1,500 residents, with an even larger community around the building to support it.

 

While I did not see a Minotaur, I did see the Bull-Leaping Fresco, one of the most iconic and well-preserved pieces of Minoan art. It depicts a ceremony in which men and women leap over the back of a charging bull.

I also discovered what is undoubtedly one of many controversies about the inventor of the flushable toilet. Conventional wisdom holds that it was invented by Sir John Harington, an English courtier, and godson of Queen Elizabeth I, who devised a flushing toilet system in 1596. Indeed, this design persists today in most forms.

But maybe the Minoans got there first? They used a series of aqueducts and cisterns to channel fresh water into the more luxurious parts of the palace. The palace also included toilets that led to a gravity-driven system of terracotta pipes that would channel waste away from living quarters to a cesspit outside the residence. This knowledge was lost to time. It would be thousands of years before the English flushed their first loo.

2024: Daios Cove

Today, the real palace on Crete is Daios Cove, the resort. Nestled in a private bay on the northeast coast of Crete, near the town of Agios Nikolaos, Daios Cove offers breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea from nearly all of its 290 villas. In 2022, it elevated its status with the unveiling of Kēpos by Goco, a 27,00-square-foot wellness sanctuary that merges holistic healing with advanced medical technology.

Daios Cove founder Dimitris Daios and GOCO Hospitality CEO Ingo Schweder created Kēpos by Goco after Schweder’s cancer diagnosis led him to blend Western medicine with holistic treatments. They spent four years developing this innovative wellness center, sensing the rising demand for health-focused travel. Today, Kēpos features a resident doctor and a team of skilled therapists offering treatments from cryotherapy and hyperbaric oxygen therapy to epigenetic analysis, establishing it as a cutting-edge wellness destination.

My stay at Daios Cove was short, and I didn’t partake in any of these treatments, but I ate and drank very well. Taverna serves traditional Greek dishes with fresh, local ingredients, while Ocean Restaurant provides a Mediterranean fine dining experience. The Pangea buffet restaurant offers international cuisine with a variety of options for breakfast and dinner.

The cocktail menu is curated by the Athens-based masters, The Clumsies, who take inspiration from the Cretan terroir. As I would soon learn, Crete is rich with herbs, and many of them find their way into the cocktail menu. The classic option is the “Summer in Crete,” a blend of rum, locally grown sage, lemongrass, pineapple, and Salicornia, a local flowering succulant. Of course, finishing with raki, a local spirit that tastes like a softer, sweeter version of grappa, is always polite.

2024: Crete’s Countryside

The next morning, an exhilarating off-road safari awaited. It was called a JeepTour, much to the dismay of Geoff, our driver and guide, as the vehicles were, in fact, Landrover Defenders. The road was bumpy, as any safari should be. As we climbed, we drove through the island’s largest forest towards mountains soaring nearly 5,000 feet above sea level. Ski competitions are held on the hill during the winter.

We drove along winding dirt roads framed by ancient olive trees and fragrant wild herbs, which led us deeper into a world that felt lost in another era. We spotted old shepherds tending a flock of goats, but mostly, we saw goats doing whatever they wanted. We watched women collecting Horta, the wild greens that are a staple of Cretan cuisine. Whenever we stopped, we could hear the gentle tinkling of bells as goats moved leisurely across the hillside, nibbling at the lush greenery. We saw two other cars the entire morning we spent in the hills. It was a scene reminiscent of the turn of the century—any century.

We stopped at a rustic hillside taverna for lunch. The table was set with fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, and olives, drizzled with robust olive oil. Then came slow-roasted lamb seasoned with aromatic herbs including garlic, oregano, and thyme. Complementing the lamb is a selection of local cheeses, such as graviera and mizithra, which offer a range of textures from creamy to crumbly. And, of course, we had a hearty serving of Horta sautéed with garlic and lemon. Is it too early for a raki to conclude? It would be rude to refuse.

 

Forever: Olive Trees

As our off-road safari drew to a close, we stood in a grove of ancient olive trees, their gnarled trunks and silvery leaves whispering secrets of the ages. To call it a grove is a bit of a misnomer. The entire island of Crete is a grove of olive trees; they cover the landside like a farm. Crete has an estimated 30 million olive trees—nearly 50 for every person who lives on the island. Almost every tree is a human-constructed graft.

Although the roots of all of these olive trees are native, they have been grafted to imported scions, basically young shoots or twigs. The native variety often used for rootstock is the wild olive tree, known as “aurelia” or “oleaster” (Olea europaea). The grafted variety that produces edible fruit is typically the “Koroneiki” olive, renowned for its high-quality oil.

And the trees simply don’t die. Although some locals told me they now needed to irrigate because of climate change, irrigation is only required if the tree is to produce fruit. Indeed, even if the dreadful south winds disrupt the pollination cycle of the crop, the olive trees will survive. They just wait.

After a week of racing from modern luxury and ancient ruins and back, the olive tree seems like a thread that stretches among them all. The foundation product of the Minoan civilization was also served at every meal I had. There are living trees on Crete that were blooming as Caesar bled out in the Theater of Pompeii. They bore silent witnesses to everything I saw on this journey. I wanted more time.

But I had a plane back to New York to catch. And this time, the plane would not wait.