After a short 40-minute flight from Miami, we depart the plane and are struck by the primitive simplicity of the tiny Eleuthera airport, a world away from overdeveloped Florida. We find our baggage on the tarmac and head to customs.
We’re in the Bahamas, which have always been a refuge/hideaway for those fleeing something—initially the law. Once known as “The Republic of Pirates,” Nassau, at the turn of the 18th century, had 1,000 brigands…vastly outnumbering the more staid citizens.
Perhaps the most influential refugees for the islands’ future were the Tories, the losers in the American Revolution. They fled the Colonies and began afresh as Bahamians.
In the 19th century, people fleeing the law, rum runners, and such used the short 50-mile boat ride from Florida to escape the consequences of their actions.
By the end of the 19th century and into the 20th, the Bahamas saw new kinds of arrivals—those with lots of money who wanted to recover from affairs or divorces gone bad, or who wanted to have one away from society’s scrutiny. Or, as in the case of the Duke of Windsor, recover from the trauma of throne abdication.
So, the rise of exclusive “clubs,” intimate hotels, or groups of houses that functioned like private estates isn’t entirely surprising. Usually started by a wealthy individual or an already tight group, these spots gave the phrase “members only” real agency.
Clubs like The Lyford Cay, Ocean, Cat Cay, and Nassau Yacht Club, founded between the 1930’s-1960’s, were among the most prominent,
On the 110-mile-long island of Eleuthera—one of the 16 major Bahamian islands—is Potlatch, named after the Pacific Northwest Indigenous term for “gift.” Originally established as a pineapple plantation in the 1920s, it later became a private homesite. Over the years, various owners added dwellings to the property. Then, in 1967, a group of New York socialites transformed it into their personal retreat, founding the Potlatch Club. Friends invited friends, lots were sold, and a small community emerged. The resulting structures were so architecturally intriguing that they have become the focus of today’s exquisite restoration efforts.
Some of the boldface names who enjoyed Potlatch’s privacy were Greta Garbo (who hopefully fulfilled her wish to “be alone”), Elizabeth Taylor, and Raymond Burr. Later, Paul and Linda McCarthy celebrated their honeymoon there. Even nuptial bliss could not stop him from using the Club’s stationery to write “Bathroom Window” and “Oh Darling.” A treat is to see the framed hand-written originals in the charmingly refurbished library.
However, in 1979, the socialites’ funding dried up. Potlatch sat abandoned for over 30 years until two childhood friends and now business partners, Bruce Loshusan and Hans Febles, fell in love with the overgrown property. They were captivated by its potential, particularly the main house’s classic fireplace and the 120-year-old black-and-white tile floor in the entry hall, which hinted at the grandeur of its past. $28,000,000 later, with the tile floor and fireplace restored, Potlatch re-opened in April 2024.
The original building, now called The Clubhouse, sits on a nondescript road and houses the reception area and library. Passing through it into the compound is an Alice-in-Wonderland experience. Potlatch reveals itself with a sweeping view of gardens, lawns, and cottages against the backdrop of blue water that usually only exists in a tropical fantasy.
The white, talc-like sand beach is protected by an extensive reef, creating calm and delightful swimming in water so clear that even small sand ridges at great depths can easily be seen. There are lots of different blues in the Caribbean, but the most iconic and arresting is the aqua in places like Eleuthera.
Some of Potlatch’s other historic buildings have been restored and repurposed, now housing the spa and gym. Guests stay in newly constructed, traditionally designed Bahamian cottages.
With 11 ‘keys’ and only 14 rooms (one house has 4 bedrooms), spread over 12 acres, the hotel retains the privacy it was known for. Even more privacy can be achieved by buying out the hotel, something both corporate retreats and family reunions have done. Plus, hush-hush, we were told that a celebrity couple has reserved the entire resort for themselves this winter.
The eight individual cottages, each strategically nestled amongst mature, undisturbed foliage, are situated to maximize ocean views. Hans told Worth, “Much of the excavation to build the cottages had to be done by hand so as not to disturb the rare Silver Top palms, which can’t be transplanted.” Along with McCartney’s lyrics, the library has Han’s original plan for the cottages. A series of architects recommended he build 2-story units along the waterfront—but he declined, saying this wouldn’t be faithful to Potlatch’s history or the sense of place he was trying to create.
Because he’s so connected to the property, Hans lives there and is often seen lovingly nurturing the lush foliage. He’s assisted in running the hotel by what seems to be an unusual staff for a Caribbean island—a team of Bhutanese hospitality experts, headed by General Manager Kezang Dorji, whose crew have worked with him in resorts around the world. “I love Eleuthera. I’ve been lucky enough to have lived in Asia, Africa, and other Caribbean islands; this place is truly special.” He added, “This is a very low-key island. We only have five hotels, each with no more than 20 rooms. ”
In addition to designing the grounds, Hans and Bruce worked closely with Caribbean interior design doyenne Amanda Lindroth. Each containing a few one-of-a-kind items, no two cottage interiors are the same. Hans’ goal was for “rooms to feel modern while evoking the informal elegance of a Caribbean estate.” Seemingly inconsequential touches, like bamboo curtain rods, show that no detail was too small for consideration.
Those bold enough to turn off the air conditioning and open the screened sliders are enveloped by the breeze and sounds of breaking waves and rustling palm leaves.
For dining, the newly constructed Fig Tree restaurant has a soaring cathedral ceiling and a wall of glass that accordions open to a large al fresco patio set next to the original club’s pool. Hans laughed at his obsessiveness when he described the process by which he selected the lighting. “I thought I wanted old fish traps to surround the overhead lights. I found them in Vietnam, but the shipping was prohibitive. Luckily, a further search led me to collapsable hand-woven replicas made by artisans in Morocco. Each one bears the name of its creator.” Han’s story provided context for these artistic, eye-catching creations that, along with the numerous, evocative black and white Bahamian photos from the 1950s that encircle the room, make the restaurant unique. These additions are not just visually striking, they set the mood Hans is striving to create.
With a dearth of decent restaurants on the island, Potlatch has quickly become a dining destination, not just for the décor but for the dishes created by Bhutanese chef Choki Wangmo. Hans told us, “Neighborhood people have discovered us. One man dines nightly for a dish Choki makes just for him. Guests come from as far away as Harbour Island. They usually stay the night. Along with a distinctive meal, they escape the crowds up there.”
The menu changes every few days to accommodate local produce and fish deliveries. It’s easier and more reliable to import ingredients, but Potlatch is committed to re-invigorating the moribund farming scene and supporting organic growers. Hans explained, “Farms are cropping up again, and by committing to purchase the crops, we hope to encourage the farmers. People left Eleuthera to farm in Nassau. Now they’re returning.”
Breakfast, which includes homemade granola, avocado toast, waffles, and omelets of every kind, is available daily, as is lunch, with its changing menu and choices ranging from salads like ancient grain and seared sesame tuna to fish taco bowls and wagyu burgers.
One dinner, a starter featured beets, just-caught seabass on a bed of house-made squid ink noodles, topped with local shredded mango salad.
Another night, we shared a creatively stuffed, island-grown winter squash served with a green apple and carrot slaw in lemon vinaigrette. It’s unusual to compliment Caribbean ice cream, but their house-made chocolate was jsut as good as any Italian gelato we’ve tasted. Insider tip: If you ask, Choki may agree to make an off-menu Bhutanese feast, as she did for us one night.
After dinner, we ran into Hans and asked about the reward for his and Bruce’s painstakingly perfect re-invention of Potlatch …not an easy accomplishment on a remote island. He smiled. “At sunset, one of my greatest pleasures is seeing guests dressed for dinner, each with a glass of wine, strolling the grounds and marveling at the sea.”
We were guests of The Potlatch Club.
