Sitting on a bench at the prow of a small but comfortable speedboat, I watch the sun drop behind the tree line, immediately lowering the temperature and enveloping our small party in flickering, orange light. Besides our little group, there isn’t another soul around…unless you count the army of crocodiles lurking just below the surface of the wide, slow river. Or perhaps the occasional swooping heron that grants us the privilege of a passing glimpse. These trees bank the Rio Grande River, which flows through Punta Gorda, Belize, and opens its mouth to the Caribbean Sea.
Our guide, Will, tells me that the land here is protected by a debt-for-nature agreement negotiated between the U.S. and Belize. Belize is a favorite winter destination for many bird species native to North America. Rather than risk those birds’ return during the spring and summer months, and the flocks of tourists they bring, the United States government agreed to preserve approximately 23,000 acres of rainforest in exchange for the reduction of $9.7 million owed by Belize. This debt-for-nature swap in 2001 was the first agreement of its kind under the Tropical Forest Conservation Act (TFCA). Cruising down the river, banked by protected land, it became clear that the idyllic scene floating above an army of dangerous reptiles mirrored the essence of this place. The safe, luxurious rainforest hideaway is pressed from all sides by the dangers its management strives to keep at bay—from climate change to poaching…to pirates.
Two days earlier, I asked Will about his official title at Copal Tree Lodge. He laughed and proceeded to hem and haw about doing “a little bit of everything.” After some prying, he eventually told me, with a look of profound disappointment at the phonetic stodginess of the words—”chief sustainability officer.” By the time I left the small South American village, I had (privately) issued Will a new title: The Sustainability Pirate.
Copal Tree Lodge is a luxury resort that produces rum, chocolate, and coffee. But mostly rum. Situated in the middle of the Punta Gorda rainforest, each room overlooks the vast tree canopy sprawling around and below the hilltop perch of the complex. With 16 private suites (more like luxury cottages) and one three-bedroom villa, Copal Tree employs 180 locals, making it the largest non-governmental employer in the region. The range of job opportunities is vast, from the resort to the distillery to the sugarcane fields and cacao and coffee farms. But what makes this multifaceted company truly extraordinary is not the top-tier service, delectable food, stunning location, or even the outstanding rum. It’s their mission to be a means of prosperity for the surrounding region. They support seven local organizations ranging from hillside medical services to adult education to rainforest preservation. They sell their rum at cost to surrounding bars and restaurants and have been paying above the legal minimum wage since before there was one. By catering to the highest standard of American luxury in a far-from-affluent region, Copal Tree aims to generate an influx in tourism and economic prosperity for the entire community in Punta Gorda.
For Copal Tree, and Will, the key to success is sustainability. Operating sustainably serves three main purposes. First, by supporting ocean and rainforest conservation, they aim to preserve the resources and stand up to those looking to take advantage of them. Second, by creating a self-sustaining, closed-loop system of farming sugarcane, they tap into the heritage of the land and secure independence. Finally, by marketing their genuine and rational way of life to Americans using familiar buzz words, such as “farm-to-table,” “organic,” and “sustainable,” they tap into a market eager to pump resources into establishments just like Copal Tree.
Before joining the lodge, Will started and/or worked for several non-profits focused on ocean conservation. That debt-for-nature agreement? Will helped to facilitate it as the founder of TIDE, The Toledo Institute for Development and Environment. TIDE’s mission is to combat illegal fishing and guard four Protected Areas. It is a simple mission, but it comes with some serious risks.
“They are like the mafia,” Will told me when I asked who they were protecting the waters from. “Who are?” “The Chinese,” he responded with a dark look in his eye. “They just kept coming with their nets. Illegal nets. Kill everything.”
Despite he and his “guys” patrolling the Protected Areas, confiscating equipment and boats, and issuing fines, the fishermen hired by Chinese conglomerates with quotas to fill just kept coming. “We would see the same guys return again and again, with new equipment, new boats. The company would pay the fines and send them back to make up the difference,” Will said. “Eventually, things got nasty.” China possesses the world’s largest deep-sea fishing fleet and handles the majority of global processing. According to the Genuine Alaska Pollock Producers, half of the fish sticks served in U.S. public schools have been processed in China, despite it ranking as the greatest offender for illegal, unreported, and unregulated (IUU) fishing practices worldwide.
“They started bringing guns. Firing them in the air, trying to scare us.” I asked him if it worked. “Fuck yeah, it worked,” Will said. “But then my guys wanted to bring their own guns. So, I had to shut that down.” If he had allowed the TIDE rangers to bring weapons, even for self-defense, Will knew that things would escalate. “They [would] just bring bigger guns, and eventually, someone [was] going to get hurt,” he said. Although many rangers chose to leave the organization rather than risk an altercation, Will made it clear that a small crew is still patrolling. I looked at him, smiling as I realized that The Sustainability Pirate was never armed.
The most common, and detrimental, piece of illegal fishing equipment used in Punta Gorda is something called a “gill net.” Wide enough for only the fish’s head to fit through, the line gets wedged into their gills when they try to back out. These nets are prohibited because they snare everything, including dolphins, turtles, manatees, rays, and even whales. These animals are often thrown back into the water, either dead or dying. When gill nets are anchored to the ocean floor, they have been known to destroy fish habitats such as coral reefs, causing devastating damage to the underwater ecosystem and the communities that rely on the ocean’s resources.
On the third day, we went snorkeling. Or we would have—it was an overcast day, and our small party of journalists was having too much fun tasting Copalli Rum and frolicking on a completely deserted island—about 45 minutes from the resort by boat. On our short ride to said island, Will took us on a brief detour to a TIDE ranger outpost.
The structure, roughly the size of a 2-bedroom house with a tall wooden lookout mounted on top, serves as an office for two rangers at a time, plus two watchdogs. To apparently nobody’s surprise, the male and female tower guardians made good use of their spare time, and we were greeted by the cutest mixed-breed puppy I have ever seen. But something was wrong, the building took up almost the entire island. “Ten years ago, [the island outpost] was twice this size,” Will said, gesturing to the minuscule “island” and speaking over the low rumble of the motor. “Climate change is taking it,” he continued. “That’s why they are using the shells. Making a wall to keep the erosion back.” Sure enough, thousands of conch shells had been wedged deep in the sand, surrounding the sand bar supporting the structure in a transparently futile attempt to keep the water away from the tower. Regardless, the water keeps rising, and the lookout will eventually have to move.
Contrasting with TIDE’s fight against erosion, Copal Tree’s farming method is far from futile—it is a closed-loop system maximizing fertility. The two main ways they optimize the 3,000 acres of farmland are by leaving the stalk leaves where the canes are cut (typically cleared) and mixing the leftover stalk pith from the distillery with water to use as fertilizer. Will leads these operations and takes us to see the fields where workers aim to cut 1,000 stalks per day by hand. Workers use machetes and rest at midday to avoid risking their health during the hottest hours. “It is my job to ensure these guys are happy,” Will told me. “I am here with them every day.”
On our way to the distillery, we walked through the Lodge’s vegetable and livestock farms, utilized by the kitchen. The biodiversity of the garden mirrors that of the surrounding jungle. Herbs I was familiar with, like basil, thyme, and lemon balm, thrive there just as well as the grove of cacao trees—from which they make chocolate bars and a gorgeous cacao-infused rum. The grove doesn’t grow in tidy rows; it is a natural section of forest where cacao trees intermingle with other vegetation. After harvesting, the beans are placed on large, rectangular trays that can be slid under a canopy to shelter from rain, or rolled back out on sunny days to enhance the drying process. Once dry, the beans are fermented in casks insulated with banana leaves. Both the chocolate and the infused rum are stunning. I recommend using the rum in a modified White Russian cocktail; a grate of Copal Tree chocolate on top wouldn’t hurt, either.
The farm-to-table dining experience at Copal Tree, combined with their numerous cocktail bars featuring an impressive array of flavor combinations—most created with Copalli rum—highlights how this resort has become practically self-sufficient. And even though it is remote, getting there is a breeze. After flying from JFK to BZE, I was met by a member of the Copal Tree team, who guided me to a charter flight. Soaring at 3,000 feet, rather than 10,000 feet, over southern Belize, the view was breathtaking, adding a sense of adventure to the luxury getaway.
With numerous activities such as kayaking on the Rio Grande (if you don’t mind crocodiles), snorkeling with a guide, a sunset riverboat cruise, a tour of the nearby Mayan ruins, and many more activities, Copal Tree is completely prepared to facilitate any level of adventure. The lodge is equipped with every amenity if a laid-back experience is more to your taste. An infinity pool overlooks the rainforest where, if you are lucky, you might catch sight of a toucan or chattering monkey. There are lounge chairs galore, multiple dining areas served by the same excellent kitchen, evening cultural education experiences, a gym, and a spa. Simply put, they know what they are doing.
By seamlessly blending high-end comfort with a deep commitment to environmental and community sustainability, Copal Tree Lodge stands as a model for how tourism can benefit local economies while preserving natural resources. The dedication of individuals like Will, who embody the spirit of conservation and innovation, ensures that the lodge not only prospers but also uplifts the surrounding region. At Copal Tree Lodge, guests are invited to experience the beauty and tranquility of Belize, all while contributing to a brighter, more sustainable future for its people and environment.
