So you want to know how to build a watch collection. Perhaps you’ve begun acquiring a few pieces but want to learn more about how to build a diverse watch collection. It can be hard to know how to build the best watch collection after you’ve inherited a watch from a loved one or received a watch to commemorate an occasion or milestone. Knowing how to buy your first watch when you’re starting from scratch can be even more overwhelming with all the options out there. Whether you want to start a casual watch-collecting hobby or dive deep into the world of horology, there are a few basics that can help lay the foundation for a strong watch collection no matter how big or small that collection will grow to be. Here are seven essential types of watches every watch collection should have.
The Chronograph
Retail Price: $8,100
A chronograph is a staple of every watch collection. It looks just as handsome with jeans and a tee shirt as it does with a casual blazer. All in all, the chronograph is the perfect everyday watch. Plus, as an added bonus, the chronograph function can actually come in handy if you find yourself in need of a timer. When it comes to chronographs, there are tons of options out there. The chronograph has been one of the most popular styles of sport watches since it first began gracing wrists over a century ago. One of the most famous chronographs ever created is undoubtedly the Omega Speedmaster. The model rose to prominence in the cultural zeitgeist on the wrist of Buzz Aldrin during the first lunar landing, giving it the affectionate nickname “the Moonwatch.” Since the Speedy debuted in 1957, we’ve seen countless iterations of the iconic chronograph. However, the latest version is particularly notable for its sleek white lacquer dial, marking a first for the Speedmaster collection. While you can’t go wrong with any version of this chrono, the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional With White Lacquer Dial is a particularly handsome execution.
The Vintage Reissue
Retail Price: $7,200
Vintage reissues have become increasingly popular in the watch world in recent years. It makes sense; models from the past have withstood the test of time for a reason, offering design language that transcends trends but feels relevant in today’s landscape. Every watch collection needs a vintage reissue. However, not all heritage models are created equal. Some are exact replicas of the original, while others take liberties with modern upgrades.
Ultimately, it’s up to you to decide which style you prefer. This vintage reissue from Zenith is an example of the former: a vintage reissue that’s a near match to the original design. The Defy A3691 Revival draws from an important reference from 1971 that took the audacious design of the original Defy a step further with the addition of bold color. To create this modern edition, Zenith used the historical production plans of the original model to ensure it was reproduced with stunningly accurate detail. This extends from the faceted octagonal case to the fourteen-sided bezel, the deep glossy red dial with a prominent vignette effect that darkens towards the edges, the unusual applied square hour markers with horizontal grooves, and the now-iconic Gay Frères steel “ladder” bracelet. The only cosmetic differences between the Revival and its predecessor are the sapphire crystal, the display case back, the type of luminescent pigments used, and, of course, the movement.
The Gold Watch
Retail Price: $18,500
It’s essential to have a variety of metals in your watch collection, like a more elevated precious metal option in addition to stainless steel. Thus, every watch collection needs a gold model. Gold watches are inherently going to be more expensive than sportier materials like stainless steel, titanium, or even ceramic. However, in terms of retaining their value, gold watches are worth the splurge. For many years, yellow gold watches were the most popular, but more recently, rose gold watches have become the new trend. A beautiful example of one of the best rose gold watches on the market is IWC’s new Portugieser Automatic 40. This year, the Swiss watchmaker has been reviving its beloved Portugieser collection with new additions. The models retain the original DNA of the line with new touches like a striking “Obsidian” dial. The combination of black and gold is timeless, yet the twist of rose gold compared to traditional yellow gold gives the watch just the right touch of flair. While gold watches can certainly take on a more elegant aesthetic, the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 strives for the perfect balance of form and function. With its substantial 40mm case and double box-glass crystal design, it perfectly embodies the spirit of sporty elegance.
The Non-Swiss Made Model
Retail Price: $6,300
Switzerland is undeniably the heart of watchmaking. However, it’s important to branch out and have diversity in your watch collection. When it comes to watches that aren’t Swiss-made, there’s really one name that rises above the rest: Grand Seiko. The Seiko brand first laid roots for watchmaking in the East in 1881. By the mid-1950s, the brand was creating models that would pave the way for the first Grand Seiko watch in 1960. Marked by a blend of style and technical achievements from the start, Grand Seiko timepieces combine the brand’s signature “grammar of design”—a set of three guiding principles for the aesthetic of every Grand Seiko watch—and high precision movements, culminating in the development of Spring Drive in 2004. Spring Drive is a one-of-a-kind mechanical movement that delivers the precision of quartz using an electro-magnetic regulator that controls the mechanical movement. The result is a mesmerizing sweeping seconds hand that glides continuously and silently across the dial. On the monumental 20th anniversary of Spring Drive, we have a striking example of the Spring Drive technology in the SBGA497 “Snowflake.” This limited edition anniversary model not only features the Spring Drive technology but also showcases the Japanese inspired artistry that goes into the design of every Grand Seiko model, with a lightweight titanium build and a pink gradation dial reminiscent of snow-covered mountains illuminated by the morning sun.
The Microbrand
Retail Price: $1,650
Terms like “microbrand” often bring up a bit of a gray area in the watch industry. However, there are a few key elements a majority of collectors can agree upon when it comes to microbrands. They’re independently owned, sometimes by a single person or, more typically, by a small team. They have limited production, making watches only in small batches and often specializing in a particular style or type of watch. Lastly, because of these factors, microbrands have limited resources to produce their own proprietary parts or in-house calibers and therefore outsource them. This last element marks a key difference between microbrands and independent watchmakers, who often have a master watchmaker and therefore higher levels of watchmaking. It’s also worth noting that many microbrands tend to sell exclusively online, directly to consumers, cutting out the middleman and in turn, costs. That said, microbrands make excellent entry-level watches when first building a collection. The Aera D-1 diver is a prime example. First, no collection is complete without a dive watch; even if scuba isn’t your thing, a dive watch offers a classic, sporty aesthetic that’s ideal for any adventure. Aera chose the diver as one of its two inaugural models for this reason, drawing on the great archetypes of functional and purposeful watches: durability, functionality, and legibility. For Aera, creating such an enduring product means doing so without compromising sustainability, which is why all its watches are made in a certified CO₂ neutral factory in Switzerland.
The Icon
Retail Price: $10,700
When you think of some of the most instantly recognizable watch designs ever made, there are a few that come to mind, and many of them are from Rolex. Rolex is without question the most significant brand in watchmaking. It transcends all audiences, from those with simple one-watch collections to those with some of the most expansive collections on the planet. When building your watch collection, you may be wondering if Rolex is really worth the hype? Is a Rolex watch really a solid investment? The answer is yes. You really can’t go wrong with a Rolex. However, for a brand whose history and catalog spans more than a century, it can be hard to know which Rolex watch to choose. Again, there are really no bad choices when picking from the Rolex catalog, but when it comes to icon status, the GMT Master II is a solid bet. The GMT Master collection has solidified its place as one of the most iconic watch designs thanks to its wide array of unique bezel combinations over the years, many of which have garnered affectionate nicknames, from the red and blue Pepsi to the blue and black Batman and beyond. The latest addition to the collection is a bit more subdued with a two-tone black and gray bezel combination that’s still awaiting a nickname. Instead of a bold bezel, we get more subtle pops of color on the dial in none other than the classic Rolex green.
The Dress Watch
Retail Price: $25,200
Most of the watches discussed fall into the more casual or sport watch categories. In today’s world, people largely gravitate toward these styles thanks to more laidback fashion trends and the widespread move to business casual in most workplaces. However, no collection is complete without a proper dress watch, even if it’s a model you only bring out for special occasions, like weddings or black-tie affairs. Like the gold watch we detailed earlier, a dress watch will likely be more of a splurge when building your watch collection. However, if you choose a dress watch from a longstanding powerhouse brand like Vacheron Constantin, you know it will be worth the investment. Vacheron has built a reputation for its sophisticated and understated watches. So when it comes to the quintessential dress watch, Vacheron is one of the brands that has consistently done it best over the years. One of the newest additions to its catalog is a dress watch that beautifully balances classic design cues with contemporary touches. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding 39mm is perfectly sized and offered in either white or rose gold, depending on your style preference. The case is incredibly thin at just 7.7mm, allowing it to easily slip under a shirt cuff. In addition, the dial is as sober as possible, stripped down to just an hour and minute hand, just like a quintessential time-only dress watch should be.
