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| Gems & Jewelry |
Tomorrow's Classics
Jill Newman
08/02/2004
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Oftentimes, however, luxury jewelers surrender to the temptation to
build an international brand name at the expense of artistic vision. Motivated
by financial pressure or ego, even the most illustrious jewelers have begun
creating a wide array of commercially appealing designs. Grand houses such as
Cartier and Tiffany generate the lion’s share of their revenue from iconic
status symbols such as Cartier’s love bracelet or Tiffany’s Elsa Peretti
Diamonds by the Yard, which the designers’ workshops produce in multiples.
 | | MARTIN KATZ, tree brooch. |
Independent designers such as Rosenthal rely on loyal patrons, not unlike
Old World painteres and musicians once did; but a jeweler’s pockets must be
particularly deep to finance the buying of quality gemstones and precious
materials. Rosenthal’s cozy client relationships afford him the financial and
creative freedom to work only for those he deems acceptable. What is more, he
never sets a deadline. His clients have waited for up to three years as he
labored on a single brooch to get his floral design to bloom to
perfection.
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